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If location is everything, then the new Harvest Ranch Market in
Del Mar Plaza ought to be a smashing success.

Opened in March, it is smack in the middle of downtown Del Mar, with one of
the most beautiful views in all the county from the balcony on its roof.

Longtime San Diego County residents are already familiar with Harvest Ranch
Market, which also has locations in El Cajon and Encinitas. (Jonathan's in
La Jolla is under the same ownership.)

For many years, the top-quality, high-end merchandise has drawn customers
from surrounding communities. Anyone in search of ingredients for that
special meal knows they can usually find what they need at Harvest Ranch.

Customer service and friendliness are watchwords at the new store. Fred
Kasten, who manages the bakery departments for all three Harvest Ranch
locations, was greeting customers at the front door on the morning I
visited.

Kasten's job is to locate ingredients for Harvest Ranch's breads, muffins,
cookies and cakes, all baked throughout the day, as well as to choose the
best of other baked goods to carry. The store stocks bread from Bread &
Cie., and pastries from top local bakeries.

The selection of wines is typical of Harvest Ranch: a wide range of
domestic and imported choices, with the pledge, "If we don't have it and
you want it, we will get it."

The wine section is well organized and displayed, with a wide variety of
local and imported microbrewery offerings in addition to the wines and
spirits.

Produce manager Sam Pearson couldn't be more enthusiastic about his job.
Known in the industry as "the mushroom guy," Pearson has an unbeatable
selection of fresh morels, chanterelles and porcinis.

One customer, according to Pearson, recently bought $350 worth of mushrooms
on a Friday afternoon. "I just brought out all my boxes, set them down in
front of him, and let him have at it," says Pearson.

Unique grape varieties (when was the last time you saw early muscat grapes
offered anywhere?), giant artichokes, variously colored peppers, star
fruit, melons, cherimoya and fresh coconut are just a few of the items
offered in the produce section.

In meat manager Mike Sutherland's department, gourmet and custom-cut meats
are regular fare. Much of the beef is prime grade (restaurant quality,
ordinarily unavailable to the retail consumer). Or you can try the
$39-a-pound, hormone-free, antibiotic-free Kobe beef.

The department also offers top-grade lamb, pork and milk-fed veal, as well
as Shelton free-range chickens.

Fish department manager Chris Ahlers says the market gets fresh fish
delivered six days a week. "We strive for low inventory and rapid turnover.
No fish stays more than two days," Ahlers says. (Don't you sometimes wish
your houseguests were as considerate?)

The department stocks fresh Maine lobster, jumbo deep-water sea scallops
from off the coast of Maryland and fresh Alaskan halibut. Good caviar is
also available regularly.

The deli section is enticing, offering a rotating selection of salads, cold
entrees and made-to-order sandwiches at reasonable prices.

There are bulk bins of hard candies, dried fruits and nuts, as well as a
selection of natural health and beauty items.

Lynn Alley is a Carlsbad writer.

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