That's tenderloin and ahi, owners and veteran restaurateurs David and Lesley Cohn would have you know.

OK. So then what's up with the eatery's logo -- the voluptuous silhouette most readily associated with mudflaps on an 18-wheeler?

And what's with the servers' skimpy go-go garb and saucy come-ons — our server bounced to the table, asked if it was our group's first visit, then squealed, "Ooooooh, you're my third table of virgins tonight!"

And what about the dessert menu headlined Naughty Treats? And the silver sticker pasted on each menu to tout the Chocolate Orgy Cake — "Share the Sin"?

The Strip Club calls itself "A Steak Place" but gives steak very distant second billing. This place is all about theater and entertainment, the gastronomic version of a Disneyland ride.

All of which is not to say that you can't get a decent meal. Some of the food is pretty good, and the price is right. But no one comes here just to eat dinner.

On a recent Saturday night, the place was bumpin'. (That's how the mostly-under-30 people who go to the Strip Club talk.) The music — heavy metal to hard rock — made normal conversation all but impossible. The long, sleek bar, minimally lighted by mod hanging fixtures and several TVs showing pro football, was three deep with guys in leather and sweet young things in clingy black.

In the dining area, the one-size-fits-all booths were filled with enthusiastic revelers. Two long cobbled-together tables hosted groups of about 20 each. And when the smoke around the grilling stations cleared for a second, you could find dozens of Emeril wannabes cooking dinner.

Fanfare aside, folks, the Strip Club is a cook-your-own steak joint.

The menu, a one-page plastic affair, is straightforward: Four cuts of steak, a burger, a chicken breast, ahi and some marinated kebabs.

It's all delivered, unceremoniously, with each piece wrapped in plastic. After a very mediocre house salad, served family-style, diners take their entrees and sidle up to one of the spacious grills, shake some seasoned salt over their hunks o' meat, grab a spatula and get to work.

But, hold on, we're getting ahead of ourselves here.

First, there's cocktail time. Typically at a grill-it-yourself joint, a Bud longneck would be in order. Not here.

Here we have a drink list dubbed the Dirty Dozen. Some diners play it straight with the Cosmo; others giggle or guffaw their way through a Honey Dew Me (Smirnoff Raspberry, Midori, sweet-and-sour mix); a Naughty Girl Scout (green Creme de Menthe, light Creme de Cacao and cream); or a Dirty Banana (Creme de Banana, Creme de Cacao, Kahlua, Irish Cream and cream).

It's not easy to flip a steak (and grill garlic bread) while swigging one of these creations and balancing a dinner plate, but the Strip Club's clientele seems happy to try. Those who don't overcook their dinner end up with a decent steak — USDA Choice, tender and tasty — at a very reasonable price, from $9.95 for the top sirloin to $15.95 for the filet mignon (salad included).

The ahi is fresh but on the thin side. The Strip Kebabs are nicely garnished with veggies, but the accompanying sauces are unremarkable.

When the cooking is done, the social scene moves back to the table, where a server delivers such Sassy Sides as cheddar smashed potatoes (fair), deep-fried onion rings (very good), creamed spinach (yawn) and macaroni and cheese (no thanks). The huge portions can serve four and cost just $4.95.

In addition to the foofy drinks and about a dozen beers, there's wine to be had for those willing to trot into the back wine room, make a choice and bring it back to the table. The selection is pretty good and prices are fair.

Dessert delivers more schtick but little sweet satisfaction. The packaged ice cream bars are, er, packaged ice cream bars. The Chocolate Orgy Cake is very big and very ordinary.

However, the complete Strip Club experience is anything but ordinary. Folks in search of a scene will find it here. Those in search of a steak dinner had best look elsewhere.

Reader reviews

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2 Reader Reviews

Good food and good times
By shawnphiggins on 4/1/2008

I have been to the Strip Club three times. This place has great food, atmosphere, and reasonable prices. The back private room is perfect if you have a good size group. My favorite part is their wine cellar; you go in and pick out the bottle. Their sides are very good and I recommend ordering a few to share.

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Strip Club (A place for Steaks)
By jedvf114 on 7/18/2007

Have been to this place about half dozen times. It is a fantastic place. The food is incredible with the most tender steaks, with excellent tasting salad and sides. You could almost just eat the salad they provide and the sides. The potatoes au gratin are the best. Yes you have to cook your own steak that is quite fun as well. Very good place!!

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